History of The Lebanon Valley of Pennsylvania
(and a list of things to do and places to visit.)
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There's more to the
Lebanon Valley than meets the eye.
Explore America's early history at Colonial
homesteads, marvelous museums, important industrial sites, and quaint communities. Choose
from natural attractions ranging from underground caverns to lush gardens, from wildlife
preserves to spring-fed trout streams. Hike, bike, camp, hunt, fish, canoe, and ride
horseback in the great outdoors. Sample local specialties such as our world-famous Lebanon Bologna and Pennsylvania Dutch delicacies.
Play a round of championship golf on one of several area golf courses and thrill to the
excitement of thoroughbred horse racing or championship equestrian competition. Enjoy
classical concerts or professional theatrical presentations. Shop till you drop at area
outlets, antique shops, and friendly farmers' markets. Spend the night in an historic bed
& breakfast and attend lively ethnic festivals. Chances are you'll be surprised by
just how much fun you can pack into your visit to the Lebanon Valley.
Old-Fashioned Hospitality
In a modern
world where tradition often takes a back seat to technology, it's refreshing to discover a
place where old-fashioned hospitality and time-honored customs continue to play important
roles in everyday life. South-central Pennsylvania's Lebanon Valley is just such a place.
While conveniently close to major northeastern metropolitan areas, the Lebanon Valley
nevertheless is well isolated from the hectic pace of city life. It's winning combination
of friendly folks, charming traditions, easy accessibility and relaxed recreation never
ceases to impress visitors and keep them coming back for more.
The Lebanon Valley's
history can be traced to early Colonial times when German settlers came to the area
seeking religious and political freedom. They brought customs and beliefs of their
forefathers, guiding principles that helped ensure strong family and community bonds. They
built small farming communities and simple churches, some of which survive today. Yet the
Pennsylvania Dutch, as they have come to be known, built far more than homes and places to
worship; they constructed a complete cultural framework by which to live. Today the
primary reason travelers visit the Lebanon Valley is to experience an authentic taste of
an era that's past but not forgotten.
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Get To Know The
Pennsylvania Dutch
The
Pennsylvania Dutch name actually is something of a misnomer, since it derives from the
German word " Deutsche." The Lebanon Valley's first Pennsylvania Dutch settlers
emigrated in the eighteenth century from what is now Germany, where they had been
persecuted because of their religious beliefs. Over time, other groups arrived, each
contributing to the religious landscape. Today Pennsylvania Dutch communities are divided
roughly into "plain" and "fancy" sects. The former still adhere
closely to their ancestors' customs, shunning modern ways and avoiding anything that might
be considered worldly or vain. "Fancy" groups have adopted some of the trappings
of contemporary society, yet remain faithful to their guiding religious principles. They
operate many of the craft shops and home-style restaurants that visitors find alluring.
The most traditional of
plain people, the Amish, follow customs that date back more than two centuries. Their
traditions focus on faith, family and an agrarian way of life; principles that have
enabled them to survive virtually unchanged. On a typical day you will see our Amish
neighbors dressed in simple clothing traveling to market in horse-drawn buggies. With all
the conveniences we take for granted, it's easy to admire their steadfast devotion to a
traditional way of life.
Visitors quickly discover
that the Lebanon Valley offers an unspoiled look at Pennsylvania Dutch Country, where the
Amish are viewed as neighbors, not as tourist attractions. Here you will find Amish farms
with small signs hanging by the road sides, offering produce and home baked goodies or
special services. These signs are invitations for visitors to stop, shop and chat with
these gentle people. It's a genuine interaction that takes place in a truly
uncommercialized atmosphere, giving you an unspoiled view of our Pennsylvania Dutch
neighbors. But, please, we ask that you respect their beliefs and right to privacy. Amish
tradition specifically forbids posing for photographs, so it's best to refrain from taking
snapshots in favor of returning home with lasting memories, tasty treats, and keepsake
crafts.
Over 200 Years
Of History
Boasting a
rich history spanning more than two centuries, the Lebanon Valley is a treasure trove of
important historical sites and cozy Colonial communities. Be sure to take time out to
explore some of these fascinating attractions.
As with many regions in
Pennsylvania, the Lebanon Valley's early growth was fueled by its abundant natural
resources, namely iron ore, timber, and limestone. Plentiful supplies of these materials
led to the establishment of Cornwall Iron Furnace in 1742 in the southern section of the
Lebanon Valley. This massive stone charcoal-burning furnace, stoked by steam-powered blast
machinery, operated day and night until 1883. The vast industrial plantation produced pig
iron and domestic products, as well as cannons, shot, and shells for George Washington's
army during the Revolutionary War. Local mining operations continued until the early
1970s, capitalizing on what are to this day the largest iron-ore deposits east of Lake
Superior.
Today the Cornwall Furnace
represents one of the world's best-preserved nineteenth-century iron-making facilities. A
visit to the site is a trip back in time to the iron industry's heyday, when the furnace
supported a complete, self-contained industrial community. Besides the furnace and blast
machinery, visitors can view related outbuildings, coal bins, and roasting ovens. Through
informative displays, a visitors' center offers insight into mining operations,
iron-making techniques, and the daily life of workers. Remnants of the ironmasters'
mansions and the workers' homes still dot the surrounding countryside. Administered by the
Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission, Cornwall Iron Furnace is open every day
except Mondays and most holidays.
Colonial history comes
alive near Myerstown at Tulpehocken Manor Inn and Plantation, headquarters for the Hanover
Rifle Battalion, a re-created Revolutionary War unit. Established in the 1730s by Palatine
pilgrim Christopher Ley, the plantation grew from a single stone house to encompass
several homes and farm buildings. In 1769, Ley's son Michael built an eight-room Germanic
stone house on the property, which was visited by George Washington on three occasions. In
addition to the original limestone-arched home built by Christopher Ley, a perfect example
of Germanic Swiss bank architecture, and the Michael Ley Mansion, expanded in the
mid-1800s to a Victorian manor, visitors can explore the beautiful plantation grounds and
view typical Colonial structures such as the old smokehouse, bake house, cob house, and
barn at this National Historic Site.
Perhaps nowhere else in the
Lebanon Valley is the early German influence more evident than at Fort Zeller Museum in
Newmanstown. The present structure originally served as a homestead for the Zeller family,
who emigrated in 1710 from present-day Germany. Dating to 1745, the Zeller home functioned
as a fort during the French and Indian War. With its mortar-covered limestone exterior,
two-and-a-half-foot-thick walls, original embellishments, and massive Queen Anne
fireplace, it provides an authentic glimpse at an architectural style that survives today
only in Europe's Rhine Basin. Fort Zeller Museum is open year-round by appointment.
Bindnagle Church, three
miles north of Palmyra, was built on land donated by Hans Bindnagle in 1753 to the local
Evangelical Lutheran congregation, with the 1803 red brick structure replacing a log
church that occupied the site. Modeled after classic Greek design, it stands as a fine
example of Colonial architecture. Bindnagle Church still serves an active congregation
today, nearly two centuries after it was constructed. The sexton cordially welcomes
visitors for a tour, which he starts by displaying the handwrought iron lock and key,
dated 1803 made in Lebanon. Call (717) 533-6037 for current tour times and dates.
For an overview of local
history, be sure to stop by Stoy Museum and Hauck
Memorial Library in Lebanon, headquarters of the Lebanon County Historical Society.
Built in 1773 as a home for Dr. William Henry Stoy, a minister and Revolutionary War
doctor, the structure later served as Lebanon County's first courthouse when the county
was established in 1813. James Buchanan, United States President from 1857 to 1861,
practiced law as a young attorney in the upstairs courtrooms.
Dedicated to preserving and
displaying Lebanon County history, the Stoy Museum
chronicles local life since Colonial times with a series of carefully constructed exhibits
showcasing historical artifacts and implements, period clothing, and Pennsylvania Dutch
furniture and quilts. Displays include a one-room schoolhouse, old-time drug store,
doctor's office, glass and china shop, music store, dress shop, barbershop, and general
store. Railroading, firefighting, and World War I memorabilia also are exhibited. Of
special interest to baseball fans is the Babe Ruth uniform display. The museum is closed
on Saturdays and holidays.
Near the Stoy Museum off
State Highway 72 north, the Union Canal Tunnel is noteworthy as America's oldest existing
transportation tunnel. Completed in 1827 for the seventy-eight-mile canal linking Reading
and Harrisburg, it was designated a National Historic Engineering Landmark in 1970, placed
on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974, and made a National Historic Landmark
in 1994.
Explore Quaint
Towns & Villages
Our Lebanon
Valley residents take pride in preserving their cultural heritage, as a visit to any of
the area's historic communities quickly reveals. One of the region's best-preserved
boroughs, Schaefferstown was founded in 1758 by Alexander Schaeffer, credited with
establishing North America's oldest public waterworks at the town's present site in 1744.
Schaeffer needed the steady water supply for a hotel he built, now the Franklin House
restaurant and tavern. It occupies one corner of the old village square. Just north of the
square, the Thomas R. Brendle Memorial Library-Museum displays items relating to community
history. It's open at selected times, including a May 14 Museum Day, and by appointment.
Schaeffer built his
Swiss-bank-style home outside town in 1750. Now operated as the Alexander Schaeffer Farm
Museum, it may be toured by appointment and during special events such as the June Cherry
Fair, July Tractor Show and Folk Fest, September Harvest Fair and Craft Show and December
Christmas Party.
Another Lebanon Valley
community with a storied past, Myerstown, was laid out as Tulpehockentown in 1768 by Isaac
Meier. The borough has approximately fifty historic structures more than 175 years old.
The Isaac Meier Homestead, recently restored, is the town founder's handsome stone
mansion. Mystery surrounds Meier's death to this day. A prominent banker and lender, he
was shot at a local tavern. Although a reward was offered by Pennsylvania co-proprietor
Thomas Penn, the assailant was never apprehended.
Home of Lebanon Valley College, a liberal arts university founded
in 1866, Annville boasts an attractive historic district featuring many restored Victorian
homes. Each December, the Friends of Old Annville conduct candlelight tours through the
district, offering visitors a special opportunity to experience a taste of a bygone era.
Nature At Its Best
The same
natural beauty that first attracted settlers to the Lebanon Valley continues to entice
travelers today. At the region's state parks and recreational areas, nature lovers enjoy
hiking, canoeing, camping, fishing, hunting, horseback riding, and mountain biking. Since
the valley is an easy drive from urban centers such as New York, Baltimore, Washington
D.C., and Philadelphia, you needn't travel far off the beaten path to savor the great
outdoors here. In the Lebanon Valley's "civilized wilderness," the comforts of
home are always close at hand.
One of the region's most
impressive wildlife areas, the 5,000-acre Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area near
Kleinfeltersville offers a host of recreational opportunities. Visitors can hike on nine
miles of trails crisscrossing the preserve, or hunt and fish in designated areas. Home to
a thriving waterfowl population, Middle Creek is a favorite of duck and goose hunters. A
visitors center, open in season, provides an informative overview of the area's ecology,
natural history, and wildlife-management techniques. A nearby nature trail spotlights
indigenous flora and wildlife habitats.
Lions Lake is located off
Jay Street and Route 72 in western North Lebanon Township. This unique 30-acre property
and 7 acre lake is owned and operated by North Lebanon Township. Originally known as
Light's Dam, the water reserve was constructed in conjunction with the operation of the
Old Union Canal, which passes nearby (operated from 1828-1885.) From 1957 to 1972, this
small park provided residents with terrific swimming, boating and fishing. In 1972,
Hurricane Agnes filled the lake to overflowing but the dam held. By 1981, the Commonwealth
of Pennsylvania declared the dam to be unsafe and ordered the dam breast rebuilt. It took
eleven years of fund raising and community effort before the dam breast was restored and
the lake could be refilled. Now, a visitors center, macadam walkways around the entire
lake, park benches, flower beds, volleyball courts and picnic tables and benches have all
been installed; making Lion's Lake one of the premier small parks in all of the Lebanon
Valley. For information on Lion's Lake, please call 273-7132.
Another great place for a
picnic or hike is Memorial Lake State Park. This park features boating and fishing on its
eighty-five-acre lake. Canoes, rowboats, sailboards, and sailboats may be rented on site.
Similar outdoor options are available at Stoever's Dam Recreational Area in Lebanon.
Surrounding a thirty-six-acre lake, the park has a fitness course, nature trail, camping
facilities, and picnic tables. Willow Spring Park in Richland offers picnicking, swimming,
and scuba diving, while three miles west of Pine Grove on the Schuylkill County border,
Swatara State Park attracts hikers, hunters, fishermen, canoeists, and fossil hunters.
For a sure-fire fishing
expedition, check out Arrowhead Springs Trout Hatchery in Newmanstown, Limestone Springs
Trout Hatchery near Myerstown or Shikellamy Trout Hatchery near Bethel. license are not
required on these private hatchery lakes that are plentifully stocked with rainbow trout.
One of the region's more
unusual natural wonders, Indian Echo Caverns -- just west of Hershey -- ushers you into
fascinating underground realms during a forty-five-minute guided tour. Visitors are
dwarfed by spectacular limestone formations in several chambers, including the Indian
Ballroom with its fifty-foot-high ceiling. Back on the surface, there's a ten-acre picnic
and recreation area, gift shop, and replica gem mill where you can pan for gemstones.
Nearby, the Hershey
Gardens at the Hotel
Hershey feature spectacular seasonal floral displays, including one of this country's
largest rose gardens, on twenty-three manicured acres.
Several local outfitters
stand ready to assist outdoor-lovers interested in canoeing, horseback riding, and
mountain biking. Annville's Union Canal Canoe Rentals supplies canoes and equipment for
float trips on scenic Swatara Creek. Pickup and delivery service is available for trips of
varying length along fifty-eight miles of "the Swatty." Our famous equestrian
attraction, the Quentin Riding Club, is a private-membership organization that hosts
numerous horse shows during the summer season, many of which are open to the public; call
(717) 273-1151 for details.
Year-round camping is
available at local family campgrounds, including Hershey Highmeadow
Campground. Options range from full-service camping resorts with RV hookups to cozy
shaded groves where you can pitch a tent. Whatever your outdoor pleasure, the civilized
wilderness in the Lebanon Valley delivers!
Lebanon Valley
Specialties
For many
visitors, the first taste of Lebanon County comes in the form of our mouth-watering,
world-famous Lebanon Bologna. Since the early
1800's local residents of German descent have produced this tasty sweet-and-spicy bologna
using carefully guarded recipes handed down for generations. Today nearly all of the
Lebanon Bologna produced in America comes from the Lebanon Valley.
Visitors can sample the
smoked bologna and see the bologna-making process in action at two local factories.
Established in 1885, the Daniel Weaver Company in Lebanon produces Weaver's Famous Lebanon
Bologna and Baum's Bologna using a cold-smoke process in authentic outdoor smokehouses.
Tours are free. Seltzer's - Bomberger's Lebanon Bologna Company, also offering free tours,
has produced Lebanon bologna at its Palmyra facility since 1902. Kutztown Bologna Company is located north of
Myerstown. Kutztown Bologna Company earned a Guinness world record in 1989 for its
61-foot, 1,202-pound Lebanon Bologna.
For a time that's sure to
be sweet, there's no better place than Hershey --
"The Sweetest Place on Earth." At Chocolate World, "chocoholics"
will think they're in paradise. Visitors also can take a thrilling roller-coaster ride at Hersheypark, view
indigenous wildlife at ZooAmerica North
American Wildlife Park, and learn about local history at the Hershey
Museum. A popular time to visit is during the annual Christmas in Hershey celebration,
held mid-November through December.
The Lebanon Valley might
seem an unlikely place to hear clashing broadswords and clanking armor, but that's exactly
what you'll encounter at the Pennsylvania
Renaissance Faire. This regional medieval fair features a re-created Tudor hamlet
complete with jousting knights in shining armor, magicians, storytellers, craftsmen, and
costumed performers. While at the estate, be sure to tour the opulent Victorian mansion,
formerly the home of a local ironmaster.
Visitors thrill to the
action and excitement of thoroughbred horse racing year-round at Penn National Race Course, just north of exit 28 on
Interstate 81 in Grantville. Hosting ten races daily on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday
nights as well as Sunday and selected Monday afternoons, the track offers grandstand or
clubhouse seating for nominal fees. Visitors can bet on a live race, or wager on any
number of simulcast harness-racing events.
If you have a taste for
culture, there's no shortage of artistic events in the Lebanon Valley. The woods in Mount
Gretna come alive with musical presentation, including chamber music and a special
summertime jazz series from Music at Gretna.
Theater takes center stage
each summer at the Gretna Theater. The
Lebanon Community Theater features quality plays at affordable prices during spring,
summer, and fall, as well as a summer concert series. And if you're in the Lebanon Valley
area in summer, be sure to check out the annual August Mt. Gretna Outdoor Art Show, when
nationally recognized artists assemble their finest during an art-filled weekend.
At two Lebanon Valley
establishments you can enjoy a fine meal followed by an entertaining theatrical
performance. The Timbers Dinner Theatre in Mt.
Gretna serves up lively musical reviews from June 13 through September 2. The Lantern
Lodge in Myerstown presents a summer and winter series of plays put on in the Lantern
Playhouse.
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